Lot 142

Attributed to Ilbery, London, 98 x 58 mm, 113 g, circa 1810
A very fine gold and enamel pocket watch of museum quality with central second, with agate, moss agate, carnelian and half-pearls - created for the Chinese market
Case: gold, moss agate, cornelian, split pearls and enamel. Dial: enamel. Movm.: bridge movement "Chinese calibre", keywind, going barrel, duplex escapement, five-arm steel balance.
Front and back of this elongated hexagonal clock are partitioned in opposing segments plated with grey agate and carnelian; the segments are divided by gold bars. The hinged lid on the back covering the movement is made from rare moss agate with natural inclusions; around the edge is a slim border of blue enamel and a row of fine half-pearls. The front holds the white enamel dial with Roman numerals, gold heart-shaped hands and a central second hand; the bezel is studded with half-pearls. Both sides of the pendant and the engraved bow are decorated with opaque and translucent enamel with paillon décor.
Objects with such distinct "moss" marking patterns have always been highly sought-after and they were often used in the 18th century for pocket watch pairs designed for the imperial court in China. Unfortunately many such pieces were lost over time so that only about ten clocks by Ilbery in a moss agate case are known. These are the forms we know of today: drop-shaped octagonal, drop-shaped hexagonal and elongated hexagonal such as this clock. It is a magnificent example of the wonderful cooperation between the clockmaker, the jeweller and the lapidary artist. The lavish ornamentation and the fanciful forms of the clocks were intended to stimulate the imagination of the onlooker and to meet the high standards of Chinese society.
William Ilbery (circa 1760-1839) began working in London’s Goswell Street in 1780 and moved to Duncan Terrace later. Influenced by the examples of James Cox in London and Pierre Jaquet-Droz in Switzerland, Ilbery specialized in producing luxury watches for the Chinese Market. At first he very much adhered to the traditional English style with its full plate movement and duplex escapement. For later movements Ilbery took his inspiration from the Lepine caliber with free-standing barrel, as did Jaquet-Droz with the watches he signed in London and William Anthony in London. Ilbery had the cases of his watches exquisitely decorated by the best enamellers from Geneva such as Jean-Francois-Victor Dupont or Jean-Louis Richter. William Ilbery initiated the production of opulently engraved movements for the Asian market in Fleurier in Switzerland; other makers in Fleurier such as Bovet and Juvet followed his example. Ilbery should therefore be considered one of the most renowned makers of the so-called "Chinese watches". Although he worked mainly in London, Ilbery kept in close contact with the trade in other countries; a watch signed "Ilbery Paris" is known and Ilbery & Son are recorded in London and Fleurier as well as in Canton.